A Walk In The Park

It was a really long day today for me. I had woken up in the middle of the night close to 02h30 and couldn’t get back to sleep no matter how hard I tried. Finally around 04h00 I decided not to fight it anymore an just got up to do some writing and photo editing. Turned out that it was a great time to get things done, but not sure how I’ll feel by the end of the day. The plan for today is to head up to Petrin Park in Lesser Town and make our way to the planetarium as well as the Petrin Tower. We are also hoping for some good city pictures from up there.

We started off walking down to most Legii to cross the river Vltava and we knew it was going to be a hot day. The forecast was for the upper 20’s with humidex in the upper 30’s and continuing to go higher for the rest of our stay here. I should also mention that walking around here I find a lot harder on the feet that I do back home as the sidewalks are mostly made out of various types of cobblestone. I look forward to finding the smaller patterned one, not just for the beauty of their look, but for the ease of walking on them as opposed to the larger stone walkways. Even the bridge sidewalk had cobblestone walkways, as did the entire Charles Bridge (it is an old bridge after all). I also found that the city is filled with graffiti, not to the major everything colored degree that we have back home, but just scrawling everywhere. We encountered a worker trying to clean some off the bridge as we crossed it to get to Petrin Park.

When we finally reached the park and the place we saw statues and stairs yesterday, we discovered that it was in fact not stairs, but rather a memorial. The plaque beside it said, ‘The memorial to the victims of communism is dedicated to all the victims, not only those who were jailed or executed, but also those whose lives were ruined by totalitarian despotism.’ It consisted of 20 stairs, the first 6 having red candles placed in various spots on them, and then followed by one step covered in various colored fresh wreaths. The last 13 steps held 7 statues of a man slowly changing from a whole man to varying stages of what appears to be decay or eaten away body.

Since these were not the stairs we thought we could climb up into the park, we decided to head to the funicular to get up the quick way and then would walk down after. By this time I was already feeling the humidity and the day was still young. The funicular is part of their transit system, so we bought a 30-minute transfer (CZK 24) to get up there. There was a large line of people to go up and we had to break out of the line to get our tickets inside, then break back in to get on the funicular. There was a stop part way up the hill, so that the car running down could drop people off, then as we got towards the halfway point the track divided into two lanes and we each took our side as we passed on our way to the middle stop and then finally reaching the top.

When we finally reached the top we discovered that there were some rose gardens up there, still in various stages of blooming. We stopped to get a few pictures and that was when I realized how hot it was up there, walking in the sun.

A few feet away sat the planetarium with a statue outside. I was unable to get a description of what the statue represented as it was entirely in Czech but the wall in the background was actually a clock that worked exactly like a sundial. It not only depicted the time accurately right to the minute, but also the astrological sign we were in at the time (cancer the crab).

We decided to head towards the Petrin Tower, which was just a ways beyond the funicular, in the other direction, since it was an area with a few more trees and we could get some shade from the direct sun during the peak hours of its strength. We got to the tower and learned it would cost CZK 505 to ‘climb’ the tower and since we were already hot and sweaty, we decided against it. Rather, we chose to walk towards the edge of the hill in hopes of finding some clear areas (we saw them coming up), where we could take some pictures. Thus began our descent from atop Petrin Park, spending just shy of an hour roaming around up top.

Our descent brought us to many winding trails and stairways. Since we knew what side of the funicular we were on, we figured that walking towards it and switching direction back and forth as necessary would be the best plan of attack to get down and find some photo ops.

Finally reaching the bottom we thought we would seek out lunch somewhere preferably of a nice sandwich and possibly pastry. We also knew that we had to head back to the hotel for a bit as Georges camera battery needed charging even though it appeared to show a lot of juice in it earlier today.

We found a bakery/deli called Paneria on Pekarská, street where I was able to get a Panini brusel (a large pocket shaped ham, tomato, and cheese Panini), as well as a huge apricot strudel for only CZK 50. A virtual steal for all the food it consisted of. It was also here that we noticed that the tax was already built into the total price, like the VAT appears to be everywhere else we’ve been in Europe. That way, we knew the price posted was the price we paid, not like back home where we have to figure out the price and what it will finally cost once we add the tax on top of it. I think Canada should reconsider how they price things. Let the business sell it for the price and then the bill will show how much of that consisted of taxes (in this case 14%).

On our way back to the hotel I stopped to take a picture of a little corner shop selling magazines, liquor, cigarettes, and some chocolate and candies.

I’ve also noticed that there are shops selling liquor everywhere. Even in the stone pillars at the ends of bridges are little shops advertising their wears, and usually with the main sale item as absinthe, liquor that when I checked one bottle out, was 170% proof. Not sure how anyone could drink this but according to the museum of absinthe they have many ways to do just that. The first photo is just across the street from our hotel, but there are also 2 or 3 more within a few feet of the front door.

We ended up wandering over towards the Jewish quarter and old cemetery, but on the way finally caught the show at the Astronomical Clock on the Old Town Square. We arrived about 15h45 and there were only a few people meandering around the square or hiding in the 2 or 3 small shaded spots, hiding from the heat of the sun. We had been told by a friend to be there by 10 minutes to the hour and he wasn’t wrong. Within a few minutes of arrival, all the tour groups started filling the square. We quickly knew that the spot we had found in the shade would turn out to be crowded in and we quickly moved towards the front of the crowd so that we could get the view and record the sounds of the clock.

We had also been told that the show was really nothing to see, but more to hear and watch the crowd. So with that in mind, George decided to record the clocks and the sound, while I went against the building and faced the crowds, recording the crowds looking up towards the clocks. It was also a small area of shade I sought out. When the hour arrived, the two little windows above the clock opened and sort of like a cuckoo clock, some figures of heads circled around the inside of the windows, while the figures beside the clock moved a little as well. Then at the end, from high atop the tower, you could see the end of an old, long trumpet sticking over the edge of the tower and being played. Once done, the crowd cheered and waved and then dispersed as quickly as they arrived. Our friend was right. Big anti-climax.

We continued our trek towards the Jewish quarter and old cemetery, stopping briefly at the Hard Rock Café on the way. Decided not to buy anything here as the prices were tourist trap ridiculous but it was a nice place to cool down for a bit. We arrived at the cemetery only to discover it was entirely walled in and there was a CZK 3000 cost to get in. Sorry, but I wasn’t prepared to pay that much to see the gravestones and then be led into a Disney style store where they bombard you with literature telling of the history we have all learned about over the years. Don’t get me wrong, it was tragic what happened throughout Europe during the war, but we also have to remember that there were others who suffered during that time period as well. We should never forget what happened but it’s almost like an obsession when I have visited other memorials to the atrocities of what happened then (including Anne Frank house in Amsterdam) that to was only the Jewish population who should be remembered and never a mention of anyone else. We need to remember everyone!

We decided we would head back towards our area and visit an Italian restaurant we had found the other day and try them out for dinner and also discovered another view of the castle across the river. 

Walking around the cemetery block to the next street up we discovered what would be known as Rodeo Drive of Prague. All the name brand shops are located here on Parizska running from the Intercontinental Hotel by the river all the way to the Old Town Square. Louis Vuitton, Rolex, Burberry, Hermes, Ferragamo, and on and on they lined the street on both sides. Definitely not the places I was looking to shop at.

The restaurant we went to was a short distance from our hotel, called Pastacaffe Tonino Lamborghini. We took a seat by the open window, next to a couple from Bristol in the UK. We ordered a cold coffee drink and then some pasta for dinner while I got an avocado, fruit and lettuce sandwich to begin. I won’t personally recommend this place, as I found that the avocado probably had a few more days left to ripen and be soft enough to eat. The pasta was also very sticky and the lack of sauce, other than what the pasta soaked up, made it a rather not preferred choice. The cold banana frappe drink was delicious though!

We chatted for a while with the couple next to us and like most British families (at least the ones we’ve met), have children living in Canada. Theirs is in Toronto, and they have visited him as well as Vancouver before. They gave us a little info on Phuket telling us how wonderful the people were and said we may want to get some clothes made there. If time permits and the price is right, we may look into that. They also suggested a tour here in Prague that we’re going to look into for either Friday or Saturday. If the buses are air conditioned, I’m in as the temperature is going into the 30’s with humidex up to the 40’s for the rest of our visit.

It was finally back to the hotel from some rest and Internet browsing. We did make a visit to one of the local convenience stores for some more water and a treat, but pretty much sat and did photo editing for the rest of the evening before calling it a night.

So on that note, hope you also had a great day and will update again tomorrow.

On To The Castle

Last night didn’t end by going to sleep when we were planning. We actually ended up going out again for an evening snack. Not sure where to go, we headed towards Wenceslas Square and on the way there found a little mall where they had small sandwiches and salads on display in the window as well as delicious looking pastries and ice cream inside. We decided to eat something good, so ordered we each ordered a salad, mine mozzarella and George’s a Caesar. We also got desserts, a tiramisu and an apple flan cake with a café latte to top it off. Now considering the fact that the girl knew only a few words of English and we knew less Czech, we managed to get this done and settled very easily. So far the people I have found here in just the first day were wonderful, friendly people.

Now it is Wednesday morning and after having coffee in the room, we’re off to the little restaurant we found on our walk back last night. It had a sign for Wi-Fi and George needed that so he could get onto his iPhone. A lot of places have it, but you have to be a customer to get the pass code at most. Even here at the hotel, I have a pass code during the stay, but since George has his laptop he has to get a new pass code every 24 hours. But back to breakfast, we went to the Bistro Deli and Bakery on Štēpánská 20, Praha 1. They had omelets with toast for CZK 99-109, which included bread. They were huge omelets considering they were only made with 2 eggs and whatever filling choices we had. It appeared that the owner was the one working, and he was very accommodating in providing us with the pass code and with his English. It may become the breakfast place of choice as it’s easy to get to and the food was great. It also looks like they have a nice dinner menu that isn’t too expensive.

After breakfast our plans were to head out to the Prague Castle by foot and along the way see what we could discover. Our journey started by heading west on Žitna until we passed Karlovo nàm (park) before turning taking a couple of side streets to the Jiraskūv  most (bridge). From there we got our first views of one of the locks on the river Vltava which winds through the centre of the city.

Once we crossed to the west side we were at the north end of the area known as Smichov. We had to turn north to pass through Malá Strana or more commonly known as Lesser Town on our way to Prague Castle, so we decided the best walk would be along the river bank. You’ll see a few of the things we saw on the way towards Charles Bridge, one of the main entrances to Prague castle.

We finally reached Charles Bridge.

As I mentioned before, our goal was the castle, but not through the route most seem to follow as their main entrance. We were looking for the other entrance, which were at the ‘old castle stairs’ and also planned to visit Charles Bridge later. So we had to head a little further west and north. It must have been a combination of names and lack of street signs, but we ended p walking too far, and ended up at the entrance to Letná park. So we had to backtrack and almost missed the entrance again, had it not been for George’s sharp eyes, or perhaps the crowd of people was the real reason.

So it was up the stairs we went. We each bought a bottle of ice water (3/4 frozen ice) and the rest water for our journey up. I was glad we did, as I don’t think we would have made it through the day if we hadn’t. It was a long climb up the stairs in the hot sun and there were many tour groups and families coming down the stairs and wanting the whole wide pathway to themselves. Anyone who knows me knows that we should share the space and keep to the right (unless you’re in a country that drives on the left). Needless to say we made it to the top and had incredible views of the city along the way including the Žižkov Television Tower.

When we got to one of the entrances to the castle, we managed to catch a bit of the changing of the guard.

Then it was onward to view the sights inside, including St. Vitus Cathedral.

Another guard stationed on the other side of the castle.

We cut our visit short, as my camera battery was going and we wanted to take a break before continuing after the peak sun time had passed. I did take a few pictures before leaving the top of the castle hill (there was more hill in the back which we hope to visit later), as well as some picture son the way down towards the Charles Bridge.

Rather than go over the Charles Bridge, we took a detour through Lesser Town mostly to stay away from the crowds. We also kind of like to walk in areas that are not necessarily so touristy as you don’t feel the pressure from the sales people and you get the opportunity to see more of what life is like in the city. As we were turning to head to the most Legli to cross the river Vltava, we saw a set of stairs with statues on it leading into Petrin Park. We decided that we would head that way tomorrow and see if we can take in the Planetarium, the Petrin Tower, and something that looks like it may be some type of funicular (from the map).

Crossing the bridge we got to see one of the locks opening to let a few boats onto a lower part of the river. We also got to see Slovanský ostrov (Slavic Island) where you can rent peddle boats for about CZK 200 per hour.

The walk back into New Town and our hotel brought us past a colourfully painted wall where a parking lot was crammed with vehicles.

After a rest, a camera charge, and an internet fix at the hotel, we went out for another leisurely walk towards the Charles Bridge and then over to the Astronomical Clock on the Old Town Square. The bridge was built in 1357 and is used as a walking bridge now and has various religious statues along its length. Vendors of all sorts also have a role along the bridge. As we left the bridge to head toward the clock I got a couple shots of one of the buildings beside the bridge as well as the watchtower and arch as you leave.

We were quite early to hear the bells at the Astronomical clock so we just sat on the sidewalk with a number of other people taking in the sights and sounds of the square.

We didn’t stay for the bells today but will be back to listen to them later. It was getting hungry so decided to head towards Wenceslas Square to find some place to eat. On the way, George and I stopped to chat with a gentleman on a bench, but we discovered he really didn’t have much to say.

We found an indoor/outdoor café that looked like it had a good menu and got a seat on the patio. I decided it was time to have some Czech beer and since George was no longer drinking, he only had a ginger ale. My choices for dinner consisted of a gazpacho (sorry no picture) and a goulash, both of which were delicious.

We opted for desert at the little bakery we found last night and picked up something to take back to the hotel with us. On the walk back I had to take a couple more pictures along the street. One of a streetcar passing by and the other, well, let’s just say that I was asked to take this one for someone else.

 

So that was Wednesday in Prague. The weather is supposed to get really hot the next few days, into the 30’s with humidex up to 40 so not sure how that’s going to go over, but we certainly will take it over what we left back home. See you tomorrow with new updates.